Since the last update:
I had the opportunity to meet John in April for breakfast and for an hour at the local range. John is now my 'go to guy' for all things guns. As you can see in his report, he is both detail-oriented and knows his firearms. He installed night sites on my G30, and I ordered his "Mitt" IWB holster for the same gun.
I've worn the Mitt for two weeks now and am impressed. This G36 experience is just part of a bigger story of finding the right carry gun. I've bounced between the G26 and one of my 4" 1911's for months, but have always wanted the Glock + .45ACP combo. I've tried the G30 with an outside-waist-band holster but was too conscious of the weight and size. I've also used a Crossbreed SuperTuck which is equally comfortable but is a bit more difficult to put on and take off.
A gun belt should be paired with the Mitt to distribute the G30's weight. I've been happy with the belts from Crossbreed and High Noon Holsters.
A gun belt should be paired with the Mitt to distribute the G30's weight. I've been happy with the belts from Crossbreed and High Noon Holsters.
John didn't ask me for this plug. He earned it with a great holster. Send him a note if you think the Mitt is right for you - his contact info is at the top-left of this site. The Mitt with free shipping: $35!
I followed this on both GT and here and I'm wondering whether there is any chance of the following. The empty case, still held by the extractor comes rearward with the slide until the rim of the case strikes the mouth of the next cartridge in the mag. This bounces the rear of the empty case upward and out from under the extractor. The empty case thus never hits the ejector, the slide fully cycles and picks the next cartridge from the mag -- JAM.
ReplyDeleteThis scenario might even explain why the problem shows up most frequently when the pressure on the cartridges in the mag is at its highest. Would have been interesting to see the failures with 6+1 (cycling with a full mag).
To test, you could put a bit of fingernail polish on the top surface of the top round in a full mag, chamber a round from a different mag, swap mags to put in the "painted" one, vigorously hand cycle the slide to the rear without allowing it to come forward, and lock the slide back. Now inspect the polish on the next cartridge to see if the case mouth was hit.
Worth a try?
This is almost certainly a problem with the extractor or the magazine latch. Since Glock probably did replace the extractor that's probably eliminated. I would try replacing the Magazine Latch. I am beting there is just enough play in that to cause the FTE.
ReplyDeleteI will add this to the tests. I will replace the latch and spring to insure complete refresh. Cheap enough. Thanks John
ReplyDeleteBro I hate to say it but your getting a common limp wrist jam. Straighten your elbows and lean into it. I've seen 200 lb men do it a million times shooting uspsa.
ReplyDeleteWhen I intentionally limp wrist it, I get the normal stovepipe and almost always synonomis with LW. But, I have never been able to reproduce this type of stoppage with a LW. I've been teaching people to shoot the Glocks for going on 20 years now and have seen many LWs and after a little correction are back in the game. If I had a ransom rest, I would bet a dollar you would get this stacked stoppage. 5 Glock shooters and carriers have had this same stoppage and with this Glock only. Come on, you're smarter than that. Why don't I LW the other G36 I have?
ReplyDeleteI have the same jam problem and my gun went through Glock shop once. Still have the same problem with WWB or Fed 230Gr ball. I have shot 6 rounds of +P ammo with factory stock condition. just to see if ammo works for the gun. Now I am carrying mine G36 with +P ammo. I have also purchased wolff reduced recoil springs 15 LB with guide rods. so far 100 rounds of WWB without the jam. need to do more to be sure if the 15LB recoil springs help the problem with low cost ammo.
ReplyDeleteI was getting same problem with mine before I ditched it. High powered defense rounds helped slightly with the problem. Hope this is helpful.
ReplyDeleteI have many 1911's and Glocks, only the 36 jammed so it's the 36 not me.
I keep wondering if a stronger guide spring, and maybe tungsteen guide rod would solve the issue, but then again, some G36 owners never experience issues. The G36 seems to be the black sheep of the family.
ReplyDeletesure sounds like a whinning little kid that bought the wrong gun and caliber wanted something for free like a new calaber gun sense he wasnt happy with the caliber he got ,squeky wheels get the grease
ReplyDeleteJohn, I have been fixing Glocks around the globe for Uncle Sam for quite a few years (62 yrs old tomorrow!). Throw in a 10% higher power Wolf magazine spring, and then, just for extra reliability, spend the extra $$ and get the Glockmeister engineered captured stainless steel, dual spring recoil spring/rod assembly(GMSSR29CS glockmeister.com). It's beautifully made and will make sure you are getting rid of any problems with Glock's cheapo version. If this doesn't work, I owe you a case of brew. I know some will say why should u have to do this - well, because you do, and it may be your ass if u don't, that's why. mls149
ReplyDeletemls149 - I have to agree with your assessment and feel a better recoil assembly will correct the cycling issue. I think the mag is also culprit as it is the softest Glock mag spring I have ever felt even on new mags. Pushing the rounds up with more force should overcome the tendency to let the round come out of the magazine at the wrong time or angle. Just so strange that one of the 36 works fine and the other is so finiky. Another test I did with just dummy rounds is put the 36 upper on my 30sf lower with no issues encountered. What's also strange is the different combination of parts changed can all fix the same issue. All fixes, I've seen, seem to work because more pressure is applied to cartridge or case at the proper moment in the cycle them where they need to be instead of jamming into each other. Money and weather has slowed my testing as well as other projects, but as I test out some of these fixes, I will make another document with my findings. So far I want to try, swapping uppers between 36 and 36 upper on 30 to see if upper or lower is more culprit. Mag springs are a simple check but expensive with 17 mags. Recoil assembly has been looked at and would like to be tried. I agree, a much better engineered product. Extractor springs and rods have helped some by keeping the cartridge held firm during extraction. I've measured many aspects of the frames between the 2 36 guns and do see a slight difference in rear frame rail hight being lower on the issue 36. Maybe some slight binding under pressure. None noticed during manual cycling though. Like I said many fixes seem to work on this otherwise nice gun. Seems like Glock had it's engineering right on the line of functional and when some stray a little more than normal, you get a picky one.
ReplyDeleteI like the SS Lone Wolf made recoil assembly and the Glockmeister looks like the same part but blackened. I saw a few others SS assemblies I liked also. I will try one of these eventually.
Happy B-Day. Must be fun travelling and fixing Glocks. How did you get into that?
Thanks for the input. -John (SiGlockBoy)
I too have had issues as described with my Glock 36. I have Pearce Plus-0 extensions on all my G36 magazines. My last trip to the range resulted in a FTE/FTF with each mag change. Ammo is always the cheap range rounds. Last week I ordered a new SS guide rod and spring assembly from LWD. I'll post again after it's delivered, replaced and tried.
ReplyDelete- CT in MI
Sorry to hear about your G36 issues. I am happy to say I don't have the 36, but do have the 20,26,30 and 34. To date not a single issue with my Glocks. I would trust my life to them! As a side not, my Para 1911 is at the factory now due to issues in every mag I fire. If they can fix it, it will be replaced by a Glock!
ReplyDeleteKW in Orlando
I have 3 other Glocks (26, 23, 21) that have no issues at all. I installed a new SS guide rod and spring on the 36 and continue to have the same problem. I'm looking for the next logical step to resolve the problem.
ReplyDeletehave over 1,000 rounds through my g36 and the only time i have a prob is with old or cheap ammo just spend the extra and get the good stuff cause you have already screwed the manufacturer db
ReplyDeleteI have a Glock 36 and have put hundreds of rounds through it with absolutely zero failures of any kind. What was the production date of your Glock? Mine is an NGL prefix from June 2009.
ReplyDeleteThere is no evidence of a relationship between manufacture date and this G36 defect.
ReplyDeleteI found a GlockTalk thread this past week where two buyers of NEW G36s have this issue, and a buyer of a used G36 has also mentioned malfunctions. (I am assuming their G36 issues are the same as others as ALL G36 issues I've seen reported, up to now, have been the same defect.)
That is 3.5 years since I bought my G36, and two years since the lawsuit. The G36 has a solid record of having a higher defect rate than what most would consider normal, and yet it appears Glock has not made any effort to acknowledge or fix this. They did just announce a recall for Gen4 pistols, so they do know how to do a recall.
GlockTalk Thread: http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1341125&highlight=G36
Chris
Im having the same case eject / stuck on top of the next round problem. My first thought was need a stronger ejector spring to hang on. My next thought was the ejector rod pushing the empty to the right too soon, making it snap out of the ejector finger. Heck, my gen2 g-23 ejector tip-end is chipped off, and still works great. steve
ReplyDeleteAny more updates on this guns issues? Was it ever resolved?
ReplyDeleteNot resolved.
ReplyDeleteGlock still hasn't acknowledged the issue, although it appears all new cases are coming from pre-2011 G36s.
John has plans for more tests but has been short on time and funds.
I recently purchased a Glock 36 in December of 2011. Had shot the gun mulitiple times each time shooting off around 100 to 150 rounds each time. On January 22, 2012, I went shooting again to make sure I was ready for my CCW classes the following 3 days. During this day I had experienced 4 different times when the casing didn't extract properly. When I talked to the guy at the range, (this is the same range that I had also purchased the gun from btw), I was told it was because I wasn't holding the handgun properly!!! I've been shooting my whole life, so I know it had nothing to do with the way I was holding it. On the 25th, I was at the range for the shooting part of my CCW course. I went through the first 30 rounds perfectly with no missfires. Came in for the next 30 and got the first 6 of those off with no issues either. Went to load my clip again, got the next 2 shots off fine, 3rd shot in on that clip the gun literally blew up in my hand!!! The gun is a total waist! I went to see my lawyer about this and we contacted Glock together. The tech told my lawyer that there is a certain way you have to warm up the polymer before you even shoot the gun! I've never heard of anything like that before and to me that is just rediculous!!! And yet again, I was told that I was holding it wrong that caused the missfire and maybe even the explosion. I personally think that anyone who deals with Glock directly as dealers even who work at the company, are just trained to say things in order to cover their own butts!
ReplyDelete